Stitch-forming mechanism for sewing-machines.



APILICATIUN -FILD OCT. 5. 'l 9N.

- PatentedlNov. 30,- 191:',

SHEETS-SHEET 1.

/Nt/ENTOH @mm v By Y 71. ATTORNEY E. B. ALLEN. y STITCH FORMING MECHANISM FOR SEM/ING MACHINES.

Amxlmon FILED om. m4.

Patented Nov. 30, 1915.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

n NRA w n kwN W/ T11/ESSE E'. B. ALLEN. Y STITCH mamma MEcHAmsm Fo sfwme MAGHINESVl APPLICATION FILED 06125 1914,

E. B. ALLEN. iSTITCH FORMING (YLECHANISMAFOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATIGN FILED OCT. 5. 1914.

Patened Nov. 30, 1915 4 SHEETS-snm 4.

WHA/58858) cierren smarte rerun EDWARD B. ALLEN, OF BRIDGEFGRT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORORATIGN QF NEVI JERSEY. i

STITCH-EORMNG- MECHANKSM FOR SEWINGeMACHINES. v

meneer.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. 3d, MM5.

Application filed October 5, 1914. Serial No. 855,039.

To all whom t may concern.'

Be it known that I, EDWARD B. ALLEN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairfield and State .of Connecticut, have invented certain new and' useful Improvements in Stitch- Forming Mechanisms for Sewing-Machines,

ing machines in which the stitch-forming ele- 1 ments are mounted upon rotary supports disposed respectively above and below the work and provided with means for turning them in the stitching of the eyelet-end of the buttonhole. l

The invention has foi" its principal object to provide the stitch-forming elements sustained upon rotary turret beneath the work, and coperating with a reciprocating needle, with actuating means adapted for 'operation at high speed and sustained mainly by the sewing machine frame independently of the rotary turret.

The lower stitch-forming elements preferably .comprise an oscillatory and bodily reciprocating,r looper adapted to seize threadloops from the needle in combination with a curved lower Aneedle entering the loops thus seized from the needle and pass loops of its own thread upward through the work for,

descent. of the upper needle through its tlireaddoop. The present invention is de-4 signed to provide crankfand-pitman actuating mechanism sustained independently of the turret and adapted to produce a dip of -the lower needle in its upper position for presenting a loop of its thread to the' upper needle(` and to provide a quick movement of the looper for seizure of the upper-needle thread-loop for distention and passage through the same of the lower needle.

The invention has for a ,further object to provide a crank motion forthe upper needle which shall be suitably timed for proper presentation of its thread-loops to the looper and which shallcause the needle to be retracted from the work fora sullicient interval not only to permit the feed of the work hut to insure the retraction of hoth needles to extreme position at the completion of o,

stitch-forming cycle moval of the Work.

The invention has for a further object to provide turning means for the stitch-formingelemcnts which shall properly perform its function 'without interference with other parts of the mechanism in the adjustment or removal of the latter for repairs or for other purposes,

v lt has for a further object to providedriving means for the stitch-formingT elements of such character that the machine muy be stopped at the completion of each stitching period without undue shock and consequent liability to iniury of the controlling stop.

motion device.

In the preferred form of the improvement,'the stitch-forming elements coperating with the upper needle are mounted upon a lower rotary support or turret and are for introduction and reprovided with simple` connections with an y axially reciprocating` rod adapted "to turn with the turret and having a swivel connectionv with one of the elements of a toggle device whose other element is connected by a link with an actuating crank of an intermediate shaft driven at double the speedvof the main-shaft journaled in the hase member of the machine frame. The head of the said reciprocating;I rod is provided with an internally grooved aperture formingl a. nut which is slidahly fitted upon a spiral` gear having rigidly connected therewith an vactuating crank pivotally connected with the loopercarrier which is pivot-ally sustained at another point upon aA swinging arm :ful` crumed upon the turret. vThe looper is fixed upon`its carrier and derives therefrom oscillatory movements upon said actuating crank and bodily reciprocating movements upon said swinging arm whereby it is caused to seize' a thread-loop from the upper needle upon one side thereof and carry it around the same for passage ofthe lower needle in its ascent through the work 'for eoperation with the upper needle. i

yThe curved and eye-pointed lower needle is fixed upon a substantially vertically swinging' carrying arm mounted upon a fuicrum sustained bv the turret atta slight iuclination from' the operative face of the worloholderor a plane perpendicular to the path of reciprocation of the upper needle, and said carrying arm has 'a link connection with` the head of the reciprocating acrio tuating rod from which it derives reciprocatory movements simultaneous with those of the looper, but differentially' thereof. p

A rotary upper shaft is preferably journaled in the bracket-arm ofthe machine frame to rotate in unison with the mainshaft and connected by a trammel device with the needlefactuating shaft carrying a crank connected by a pitman with a stud sustained by and laterally ol'set from the axis of the upper needle-bar. By this means, the upper needle carried by the needle-bar is caused to reach its lower position slightly before its actuating crank reaches its corresponding position from which it begins an early 4 rising movement for presentation of its loop for seizure by the looper withoutshortening the normal period in which the' feed takes place or the period in which it remains above the work while the lower needle is retracted. y

The rotary bushing for the upper needle andthe turret are provided with the usual. pinions meshing with toothed sectors which are preferably mounted upon separateV but alined fulcra sustained respectively by the bracket-arm and the machine base, these toothed sectors having lateral arms connected by adjustable links with cranks upon a vertical rock-shaft in the rearward portion of the frame which is operated by a connec-` tion .with the feed-wheel for turning the stitch-forming elements in the stitching of the eyelet-end of 4the buttonhole. By the means thus described, the toothed sectors may be made very rigid and light in weight,

in that they are fulcrumed near the pinions which they operate, while ample space is given beneaththe bracket-arm for installation of the traveling work-holder and the buttonholekcutting mechanism without inter` ference, whileenabling the parts to lbe read? ily assembled and removed independently of the turning means for the stitch-forming mechanis It is desideratum in machines designed for operation at high speed to'reduce to the utmost the weight of moving parts whose momentum and inertia must be overcome in stopping and starting the machine. According to the present improvement, the actuating devices for the stitch-forming eleis a side elevation, partly in section, of an y a front end view of the partsofthe machine below the work-holder at a different stage of the stitch-termin cycle from that disclosed inthe preceding `gure. Fig. 5 is a side elevation 'of the turning mechanism for the stitch-forming devices. Fig. 6 is an elevation of a part of the lower needle mechanism and certain accessories. Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the looper-actuating rod. Figs. 8, 9 and 10 are perspective views showing the stitch-forming elements in diderent stages of their cycle of operation. Fig. 11 is an enlargedr detail perspective view showing the looper in the act of seizing a thread-- loop irom the upper needle and Fig. 12 is a similar view representing the lower needle about to pass through the upper-needle threadloop held distended by the looper.

The machine frame corresponds with others of the same type in comprising the hollow rectangular base 1 from vwhich rises the hollow standard 2 having the tubular` overhanging arm 3 terminating inthe head 4. The base 1 is shown resting upon the bed-plate 5. Within the base l. is suitably journaled the main-shaft 6 provided with quartering cranks 7 connected by pitmen 8'with similar cranks 9 of the rotary upper shaft 10 journaled in the bracket-arm and A provided at its rearward end with the handments are made as simple and regularin movement as practicable consistent with rigidity and durability, and these devices have accelerating connections with the heavier portions of the operating mechanism which may. thus be driven at a comparatively slow spced. By this means, the work imposed upon the stop-motion is very mate- In the accompanying drawings, Figure l rially reduced, and the time involved in wheel 11.. Upon the rear end of the mainloc shaft is loosely mounted the grooved belt- Wheel 12 provided with the clutch-ring 13 forming one member of a stop-motion of which the coperating spring-pressed tooth 14 is sustained by the lower arm of the stoplever 15 mounted upon the fulcrum-pin 16 which is sustained bythe bracket 17 projecting rearwardly from the base 1. This stopmotion is substantially the same in construction as that of vmy prior Patent No. 1,024,490, of April 30, 1912.

Upon the forward end of the shaft 10 is mounted the disk 18 having intersecting dia-` metrical grooves 19 entered by roller-studs 20 of the disk 21 whose hub 22 is secured upon the needle-actuating shaft 23 which derives from the shaft 10, through the trammel device, comprising the disks 18 and 2.1., two rotations for each rotation of the shaft 10. The shaft 23 carries the crank-disk 24 having the crank-pin 25 connected by means of the pitman 26 with the laterally oiiset stud 27 of'zhe collar 28 loosely embracing but. restrained by the split collar 29 against the bushing 31,.offtthe` bracket-arm headf and its lower bear-ing in the rotary support or bushing 32 journaled in the lower member of the bracket-'arm head and provided at its lower vend with the collar 33 from which depends the guide-arm 34 provided in its inner -face with a channel entered by the stud 35 projecting laterally from the needleclamp 36 carrying the eye-pointed straight needle 37. The bushing 32is provided beneath the bracket-arm head with the toothed pinion. 38 and has secured thereon abovy its bearing the collar 39 by which said bushing is maintained in position. The engagement of thestud 35 with the guide-arm 34 serves to maintain the 'needle-bar in fixed circular relation with its bearing bushing while permitting'it to reciprocate freely therein.

The main-shaft has secured upon its forward end the gear-wheel@ meshing with a toothed pinion 41of one-half its diameter fixed upon the rearward end of the'intermediate looper-actuating shaft 42 which has hxed upon its forward end the crank-arm 43 provided with the stud-pin 44.' The'stud` or crank-pin 44tlius has, through the described connections, yuniform rotary movements in unison with those of. the needleactuating crank-pin` 25. enters one apertured? end ofla link45 connected at the opposite end bymeans ofthe screw-stud 46 withf'ithe swin'ginglever 47 whose lower apertured '-end. 1s fulcrumed upon the stud-screw,-48jsustamed by the bracket-plate ll seciugedl to lthe .cross-member l ofthebase 1. ly -1 To the free end o flthe leverr47 is pivotally attached vby lmeansjofl thek screw-pin 49 the link 50 whose apertured.opposite end is pivotally connected byimeansv of the' screw-pin 51 with the lhead o'the tubular recipro` catory plunger-bar journaled in a bearing boss 54 of the bracket-plate lb; As will be observed, the pivotallyi connected yswinging members 4T andrv() Iconstitutea toggle 'device of which the thrustfof 'one member'is received'by the-fixed fulcrun'i-stud 48 and that of thel other'memberjis imparted throughgthe fstiwl-piiitov theV plunger-bar 53 whiclu derives interrupted eciprocatory movementsfrom' the uniformly rotating crank 43 throughv such toggledevice.

'The laterally extending headp'52fof lthe plunger-bai`- 53^is formed'avith a fork 52"/L entering an annular groove'or vneck 550i The stud-pin 44 y the tubular actuating rod 56 having at its upper end the laterally extending head 57. The rod 56 is journaled in the axially depending tubular hub 58 of the rotary disk 59 constituting the turret which sustains the lower stitch-forming elements. The hub 58 of the turret is journaled in a suitable aperture of the bearing boss 60 formed upon the bracket-plate lb and sustaining the curb 61 having secured upon the bottom of its cylindrical cavity the wearing plate 1 62 upon which the turret member 59 rests. The turret is confined in position upon said wearing plate hymeans of the toothed pinion 63 secured upon its hub 58 immediately beneath thee-ame and housed within a suitable re cess of the bearing boss 60.

Rigidly secured upon the vdisk 59 is the post 64 which is provided with a lateral arm terminating in a bearing boss 65 in which is journaled a short vertical rock-shaft 66 having secured thereon the spiral gear 67 whose lower end rests upon the disk 59. The gear 67'is slidingly litt-ed within the internallv and spirally grooved aperture in the head 5.7i.

of the rod 56 from which it derives oscill'atory movements from thel vertical movements of said rod. The rock-shaft 66 carries a crank-arm 68 pivot-ally connected by means of the screw-pin 69 with the rocking looper-carrying block 70.

Upon the block 70 is adjustably secured b v means of the fastening screws 7l the shank 72 of the looper formed with the beak 73 having at its base the depending lip 7 4` forming therewith a throat -for reception of the -needle-thread loops entered by the beak.

The looper-carrier is pivotally mounted by means of-the screw-pin 7 5 upon the outer end of the swinging arm 76 which is provided at its otherk end with the fulcrum-pin by a second lateral arm of the post 64.

Secured upon the disk 59 is a second post 7 9 formed at its upper end with the slightly inclined bearing boss 80 in which is jour- .scre'w 84 the shank of they curved lower needl'e 85 with laterally grooved blade in which are disposedtwo eyes 85 and 85 of which onelis near the'point and the other near the enlarged shank portion, as rep-resented in Figs. 6 and 1l. The needle-clamp 83 is shown provided with a guide-eye 83 through `477' journaled inthe bearing boss 78 sustained which the lower thread is led 'from the upper end of the hollow rod 56 to the needleeye 85 and thence to the needle-eyev 85 (Fig. l1). Intermediate its ends, the needle-carrying a rm carries the ball-stud 86 embraced by a strap .at the upper end of the pitman 87 whose lower end .is -provided with a similar strap embracing a similar stud 88 extending laterally from theihead 57 of the rod 56, as represented.particularly in Figs. l 'and 6. By the described independent connections of the looper and the lower needle with the head- 57 of the actuating rod 56 these lower stitch-forming elements are given their respective simultaneous operative .movements in different angularly disposed planes relative to eachother and to the path of reciprocation of the upper needle 87. l Y

The turret-disk 59 is formed on its upper face and at one side with the bearing boss \89 in which is journaled the' fulcrum stud- -screw 90- extending laterally from an upwardly extending post 91 having la transversely channeled head 92 upon which is secured the 4foot 93 of a bent arm 94 having the offset needle-plate 95 with' crescentshaped needle aperture 9@ of which one end lreceives the straight upper needle and the other yreceives the curved lower needlef The needle-throat is adapted to be tilted upon its fulcrum-stud 90 to permit thel advance of the cuttingmechanisin to operative position, and is normally maintained in operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism by means which are or maybe constructed as represented in my said United States Patent No. 1,048,786. v

. The lower-needle thread t is in practice led from the source of supply through the- ,tension device 97 and thence through suitable thread-eyes in thel spacedparallel niembers of the thread-guide 98 whose foot 99 is adjustably secured upon the bracket-plate 1" by, means of the fastening screw 100` from whiclrthread-eyes it .is ed upwardly through the rod 56 and thence through the guide-eye 83 'to the lower needle 85. To the head 52 of the plnger-bar 53is secured by means of the fastening screw 101 the shank 102 of a fiat pull-'off linger 103 having a path of movement intermediate the' spaced members of the thread-guide 98 and adapted Ain its lowerposition to form a bend in the stitch-termin cycle.

Y stitching vlower thread intermediate the tension and the workso as to draw the previously formed lower-thread loop up to the 'Work and pull a supply of lower thread through the tension for the succeeding stitch-formincycle, as represented in Fig. 4.

he upper rotary shaft 10 is shown prodvided with a cam-cylinder 104 provided with a two-stage cam-groove 105 entered by a roller-stud 106 upon thedepending -arm of, a vibratory upper-thread take-up 'lever '-107 fulcrumed at 108 upon the arm of the machine and ada ted'to -act upon the needlethread intermediate the u per tension de vice 109 and the upper'needle, once for each The upper thread is type of buttonhole led, as vusua in this machines, 'from the tension through the eye of the take-up lever and thence downwardly through the hollow needle-bar to the. needle.

In the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism as thus described, the upper needle descends through the material m to its lowest position while the actuating crank is still approaching its y respective extreme lower position," and begins .to rise to throw out a movement and thereby rapidly draws down the ro'd 56 which causes ,the quick movement of the looper 78 to loop-seizing position, as represented in Fig. 8. As the crank 43 continues its movement, the toggle is bent to `extreme position, asA represented in Figs. 4

and 9, the looper being advanced in'a curved path around the needle and carrying the needle-thread loop to an inclined position between itself and the material and directly above the point of the lower needle (Fig. 12).

The continued'movement of the looperactuating crank 43 produces the rapid.v

straightening of the toggle and initial entrance of the llower needle into the upperneedle thread-loop and its continued rise through the needle-throat and the buttonhole slit s in the material While the looper performs its retrograde movement. The lower needle reaches its extreme upper position Vand the looper its eXtreme retracted position just as the toggle becomes straightcned, but as the toggle members mo"e slightly past vstraightened position, as represented in Fig. '3, the rod 56 receives a slight dip in vits upper position which is communicated to the lower needle to. cause it to throw out a loop of its thread t above the work for entrance of the descending upper. needle, as represented in Fig.Y 10, the looper being given a corresponding idle movement adjacent its extreme retracted p0- sition. It will be observed that the lower needle performs its rapid advance movement in passing. through the-upper-needle thread-loop held by the looper, the function `of the dwell-producing action'of the actuat- -ing toggle device bein to interrupt its reciprocatorymovement 1n its loop-presenting position wherein the. lower thread is held for passage by the upper .'needle.- In other words, the function of the dwell-producing action of the toggle device is performed in conjunction with the lowerl needle in its loop-presenting capacity. .The actions of the pull-olf member 103 and thel take-u member 107 are timed to take placeeacli while its respective needle is retracted from the work, so as to eectivel set the stitches at the completion of eac stitch-forming cycle.

las

' nism.

aie-aser Secured upon the lower side of the bracket-arm 3 by means of the screw 110 is a bracket in the form of a. laterally extending yoke 111 between the spaced upper` and lower members of which and ulcrumed upon the stud-pin 112 is the hub 113 of a swinging arm 114 carrying the toothed sector 115 meshing with the pinion 38 of the rotary needle-bar bushing. The hub 113 has .extending therefrom at an angle with the arm 114 a second and shorter arm 116 carrying the stud-screw 117.

'nto the bearing boss 118 bolted to the base member 1a to sustain the main-shaft 6` projecting from the standard 2 and having" dinally' also a. Asuitable bearing in the base 1. This rock-shaft has secured upon its upper and lower ends, respectively, the lateral crankarms 127' and 128, The former carries a stud-bolt `129 embraced by the apertured eX- tremity, of one section 130 of a two-part link having another section 131 whose apertured extremity embraces the stud-screw 117 of the crank-arm 11G. The sections 130 and 131 of the link are adjustably secured to the connecting plate 132 by means of screws ,133 entering elongated apertures in said plate and tapped into the link sections, respec tively. By this means the compound link thus formed is lengthwise adjustable for determining the correct position of the toothed sector 115 and the circular,v position of the needle 37 relatively to theSv looper mecha- `The crank-arm 128 carries at its extremity the stud-bolt 134 embraced by the aper-L tured extremity of one section 135 of a tWopart link having another section 136 whose a pei-tured' extremityembraces the stud-screw 124 of the crank-armh123. The sections 135 and 136 of this lin/Icare adju/stably secured to the connecting plate 137 by meanso screws 138 entering elongated apertures in said plate and tappedinto the link sections, respectively, similarly to the upper sectional link, andffor the same purpose .in relation tothe circularposition .of the turret and thev lower stitch-forming elements sustainedv thereby.

The crank-arm 128 carries intermediate its ends a roller-stud 139 entering the 'cam ly groove 140 in the lower face of the feedwheel 141 by means of which the rock-shaft 125 1s turned to impart reverse rotary movements to the needle-bar bushing 32 and the turret 59, and hence to the stitch-forming elements sustained by them respectively, in stitching the ends of the button-hole.

VThe feedwheel derives its step-by-step rotary feeding movementsv from clutch ,mechanism similar to that of my United- States Patent No. 862,125, of August 6, 1907, and comprising clutclrdogs 142 embracing the depending flange 143 of the vfeed-wheel and actuated by the vibrating operatinglever 144. The lever 144 is adjustably connected with one end of a link 145 Whose opposite end is attached to the vibratory lever 146 fulcrumed at 147 and carrying a roller-` stud entering the cam-groove 148 of the cylinder 149 ixed upon the main-shaft 6. As in the machine forming the subject of my said Patent No. 1,024,490, the feedwheel derives from the clutch mechanism above described, a partial rotation during the stitching operation, the rotation being completed by the actionA upon its periphery or' the reciprocating pawl-bar 150.

The work-holder comprises the longitutra'veling and sidewise movable lower clamp-plate 151 and. the clamping feet 152 carried by the arms 153 mounted upon the block ,154. rEhe workh older derives its operative movements rela pivotally tively to the stitch-forming mechanism from suitable cam-grooves in the upper face of the feed-wheel through connections with swinging levers 155 and 156 carrying rollerstuds entering said cam-grooves, as shown more fully in my United States Patent No. 1,039,241, of September 24, 1912.

As shown more particularly in my said Patent No. 1,048,786, the traveling cutting mechanism comprises the upper cutting member 157 sustained by the cutter-bar 158V and acting` in conjunction with a lower cutting member carried by the cutter-bar 159.

These cutterilevers are mounted upon a comi mon fulcrum sustained by the traveling block 160 and are actuated by the transverse cutter-shaft 161 driven by a belt embracingthe loose belt-wheel 162with a suitable .in `termediate clutch device through the action of which the cutter-shaft is given a rotation at the beginning of a buttonhole stitching operation. 1

As represented in the drawings, the cutting mechanism is disposed lengthwise of the machine and in alinement with the path traversed by the lower needle in its reciprocating movements `through the buttonhole slits. As so disposed, the cutting device has a'range'of movement intermediate the fulcrum-studs 112 and 119, the stitch-mechai nism turning rock-shaft 125 being arranged 'ih the rearward part of the machine. and at oneside of the center Where 1t is entirely harsh movements.

clear of the cutting mechanism and other to be thrown into stopping position by the action of the spring 167 upon the stop-lever in conjunction with a tripping point upon the feed-wheel acting upon the rock-lever .168 operatively connected with a detentlever for the stop-lever arm 163, the action of the stop-motion in arresting the stitchforming mechanism serving through suitf able connections to throw the pawl-bar'l() in to operative relation with the feed-wheel for completing the rotation of the latter. A

As thus described, 'the machine is set in motion for performing a buttonhole-produc ing operation by initiating the rotation of the cutter-shaft which causes the cutting elements to travel into stitching position and to close upon the work and to then recede to initial retracted position, after which the stop-motion is tripped to start the stitching mechanism. The stitching now proceeds as before described, the stitching elements be'- ing given a semi-rotation at the eyelet-end of the buttonhole slit and being turned into initial position at the completion of the stitching operation at the narrow end of thebuttonhole. This stitching proceeds very rapidly by reason of the actuation yof all the stitching elements from rotary cranks with simple intervening connections avoiding all The .mounting of the toggledevice for the lower stitch-forming elements independently of the turret obviously not only insures the utmost simplicity in the construction of such device, but avoids the needless loading of the turret and insures its lightness in weight for quick and accurate step-by-step rotary movement in the stitching of the end or ends of a buttonhole, depending upon the character of the latter'.

In the embodiment represented in the drawings, the timing of the operative movements of the cutting device, the work-feeding mechanism and 'the stitch-mechanism turning device is similar to that of my Patent No. 1,024,490, the return rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism to initial positionbeing effected by the movement of the feedwheel subsequent to the stitching operation under the action of the pawl-bar 150'; but it is obvious that the equally adapted to machines constructed for present improvements are 4 operation similarly to that' of my pending application Serial No. 776,506, filed June 30, 1913. A

It is evident that the looper mechanism hereinshown and described, while designed particularly for embodiment in that class of buttonhole stitching machines in which the stitch-forming mechanism rotates in the stitching of the eye of the buttonhole, is not limited in its adaptation to any particular tvpe of machine, and that it is susceptible of considerable modification in its construction and arrangement of parts within the scope of the present invention. It is 4also obvious that certain features of this invention are adapted for use independently of the others, and that they are susceptible of change under dierent working conditions without departure from the invention.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is:

1. In a sewing machine, in combination, a

reciprocating needle, turning means therefor, a turret, means for turning it in unisonA with the needle, a loop-presentingelement -mounted thereon and coperating with said needle, an actuating crank, a toggle `device mounted independently of the turret and operatively connected with said loop-presenting element, and an operative connection between said crank and the toggle device.

2, In a sewing machine, in combination, a reciprocating upper needle, turning means therefor, a turret, means for turning it in unison with said needle, a reciprocating lower needle and a looper mounted upon said turret and each coperating with the other and with the upper needle in the production of stitches, an actuating crank, a toggle device mounted independently of the turret and operatively connected with the lower needle and looper, and an operative connection between said crank and the toggle device.

3. In a sewing machine, in combination, a reciprocating needle, a coperating looppresenting element, a rotary support therefor, means for turning said needle and support in unison, a reciprocating actuating rod operatively connected with said loopfpresenting element, a toggle device sustained independentlyof said support and connected with and imparting to said rod endwise 'movements with a dwell at one end of its range of movement, an actuating crank, and

arotary turret uponv nieaaov operatively connected'with saidlower needle and disposed in substantially axial relay tion with the turret, a toggle device connected with and imparting to said rod endwise movements with a dwell at one end of its range of movement, an actuating-crank, and a link connection between said crank and the toggle` device. I

5.ln a `sewing mach-ine, in combination, a reciprocating upper needle, turning means therefor, a lower needle yco'perating with? said upper needle, a rotary turret uponv which said lower needle is mounted, means for turning said .turret in unison' with the Aupper needle, a reciprocating `actuating rodreciprocating actuating rod operatively con- 4 nected with said loop-presenting element, anA actuatingcrank, a swinging lever, a link connection between saidlever and the reciprocating rod, and a link connection between said crank and lever adapted to communicateto said lever movements into and out of alinement with its link connection with said rod.

7. In a sewing machine, in combination, a `reciprocating needle, turning means there` for, a loop-taking element cooperating with saidneedle, a rotary turretisustaining said loop-taking element, means for turning said turret in unison with said needle, a reciprocating actuating rod journaled in said turret' and operatively connected with said looptaking element, an auxiliary reciprocating rod mounted.independently of said turret and having a swivel connection with said actuating rod, an actuating crank,` a swinging lever, a link connection between said lever and the auxiliary reciprocating rod, and a link connection between said, crank and lever adapted to communicate to said lever movementsinto and out of alinement with its link connection with said auxiliary rod. I

8. ln a sewing machine, in combination, a reciprocating needle, and a cooperating thread-carrying loop-taking clement, means for turning them in unison, spaced threadguidesfor the thread leading to said loop-` ta-king element, a` reciprocating actuating rod operatively connected with said looptaking element, a toggle device connected with and imparting j to said-rod endwise movementsy 'with a. dwell loneriid .',o'f its 'range of movement, a pi1ll-ofl"in.e`niber connected with said rod and movable inunison therewith between said thread-guides, and

actuating means for Said toggledevice.v s

9. In a sewing inachine,in'combination, a reciprocating needle, 'turning 'means therefor, a loop-taking' element fcoliieilating with said needle, a rotary-.turret s'ustainingfsaid loop-taking `element,means'foiturniiig said turret in unison with saidnee'dle, a recipro-v cating actuating rod operativcl;7 connected with said loop-taking element and'gturiiing with said turret, a toggle dev-ice-n'iounted in.- dependently of said turret, `a swivel connec-` tion between a memberof said toggle device and said actuating rod, spaced stationary thread-guides-for the thread leading tosaid loop-taking element, a pull-oil finger operatively connected with saidtoggle device and reciprocating -in unison withsaid actuating rod, and actuating means 'forsaid toggle device. i

10. In a sewing machine, in combination, a reciprocating eye-'pointedl upper needle, turning means therefor, a lower needle cooperating with said upper needle, a carrier therefor, a rotary turret, means forturiiilig the same in unison with said needle, a fiilcriim for said carrier mountediupon saidA turret and disposed at subst-antially the level of the eye of the*y upper 'needle' when in loop-presenting position, a reciprocating' actuating rod :journaled within and .axially 'of said turret, a link conncctionfbetween said rod and the lower needle-carrier, a toggle device mounted independently of said turret and operatively connected with said rod, an actuating crank, and an operative connection 'between' said crank andA the toggle device.l

llfln a sewing machine, in combination, a Vreciprocating eye-pointed upper needle, turning'means therefor, a lower needle and a looper coperatingwith said upper needle and witheach other in the production of stitches, a Irotary turret sustaining the lower needle and louper, means foutu-ming the turret in unison with the upper, needle, a reciprocating actuating rod, an operative connection between said actuating rod and the lower needle, a connection independent thereof between the actuating rod and the looper, a: toggle device mountedlupon a stationary support, a connection between said toggle device and the actuatingrod for iinparting to the latter endwise movements having a dwell at one end of its throw, and actuating means for said toggle device. i

'12. In a`sewing machine, in combination, aA reciprocating needle, a loop-taking element cooperating with said needle, an oscillatory crank connected with and communicating operative movements to said loop-taking element, a reciprocating actuating rod, driving means including a spirally-toothed gear and 'ments-to said actuating rod.

13. In a sewing machine, in combination, a reciprocating needle,a loop-taking element coperating withsaid needle, an oscillatory crank connected with and communicating operative movements to said loop-taking ele-,l`

ment, a reciprocating actuating rod, driving. means including a spirally-toothed'gear and an internally grooved nut slidingly fitted thereto one Aof which is connected with and reciproca-ted by said said actuating rod and` the 'other'operatively connected with said crank, a'toggle device for imparting endwise movements to said actuating rod, and actuating means for said toggle device.

14. In, a sewing machine, in combination, a reciprocating needle, a loop-taking element coperating with said needle, a swinging arm upon which saidloop-taking element is pivotally mounted, an oscillatory crank pivotally connected with the looper independently of its connection with said swinging arm, a reciprocating actuating rod, driving means including a spirally-toothed gear and an internally grooved nut slidingly fitted thereto one of which is connected with and reciprocated by said actuating rod and the other operatively connected with said crank, and means for imparting endwise movements to said actuating rod.

15. In a sewing 'machine,'in combination, a reciprocating upper needle, a lower needle and a looperv coperating with said upper needle and with each other in the production of stitches, a carrier for the lowerA needle, a`

fulcrum for said carrier, a carrier for said looper, a swinging army upon 'which the looper-carrier'is plvotally'mounted, an oscillatory crank pivotally connected with 'the looper-carrier independently of its connection with said swinging arm, a spirallytoothed gear connected with said crank,- a

reciprocating ymember having'a `spirallygrooved aperture vslidingly fitted upon said gear, a link connection between said member and the lower needle-carrier, and means for impartingfto said ember reciprocating movements in a direction lengthwise of said gear.

1G. In a sewing machine, in combination,

' a. reciprocating upper needle, turning means therefor, a lower needle and a looper cooperating. with said upper needle and with each other in the production of stitches, a rotarv turret,fturning means therefor, a carrier for the lower needle, a fulcrum for saidA carriervsustained by and inclined to the axis vof movement of said turret .and upon which the lower needle is adapted to move in a plane slightly inclined to the path of the 'upper needle, a carrier for said looper, a swinging arni upon which the looper-carrier is pivotal'ly mounted, a fulcrum for said arm parallel with the axis of 'movement of said turret, an oscillatory crank pivotally connected with the looper-carrcr independently of its connection with said swinging arm, a spirally-toothed gear connected with said crank and movable upon an axis parallel with that of said turret,^a reciprfating member having a spirally-grooved aperture slidingly fitted upon said gear, a linkv connection between said member and the lower needle-carrier, andmeans for imparting to said member reciprocating movements in a direction parallel with the axis of the turret. 17. In a sewing machine, in combination, a needle, a rotarysupport therefor provided with Va toothed pinion, complemental looptaking means, a rotary support therefor provided with a, toothed pinion, toothed sectors each meshing with one of said pinions, independently mounted fulcra for said sectors, 4an actuating rock-shaft disposed parallel with said fulcra and provided with a plurality of'cranks, `turning means for said vrock-shaft, and link connections between said cranks and said toothed sectors, respectively. p

18. In a sewing machine, in combination, a needle, a rotary support therefor provided with a toothed pinion, complemental looptaki-ng means, a rotary support therefor provided with a toothed pinion, toothed sectors each meshing with one of said pinions,

.independently mounted fulcra for said sectors, an actuating rock-shaft disposed parallel with said fulcra land provided with a plurality of cranks, turning means for said rock-shaft, and endwise adjustable link connectionsbetween said cranks and said toothed sectors respectively.

19. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with the frame comprising a Ahole cuttingl device comprising a cutter-carrying lever disposed intermediate the base and bracket-arm and in substantial alinement with said needle, toothed sectors each meshing with one of said pinions, fulcra for said sectors mounted respectively in the base and the "bracket-arm above and below said cutterrcarrying lever, an actuating rock-shaft journaled at, opposite ends in the base and the bracketarm beyond the range of movementof said cutter-carrying lever,

' and link connections between said cranks and said toothed sectors, respectively.

. n n u 20. In a sewing machine, in combination,

areciprocating needle-bar, an upper needle carried thereby, a lower. needle and a looper a coperating-with said Vupper needle and fio with each other in the production of stitches, a uniformly rotating actuating crank, operative'vconnections between said lcrankfand said lower needlevand looper, a uniformly rotating shaft, a needle-actuating crank,A

thereon rotating in unison with the firstnained cra-nk, and a p'itman connected with said needle-actuating crank and with said needlebar at a. point offset from a diameter of'the circular path of movement of the needle-actuating crank parallel with said Aerative ing independent connections needle-bar.

21. In asewing machine, in combination, a reciprocating needle-bar, an upper needle carried thereby, Iloop-taking ineans comprising an oscillatory looper adapted to seize thread loops from the upper needle at one side of the work and a reciprocating lower needle adapted to carryv a thread-loop through the upper-needle thread-loop and present it for passage of the upper needle at theopp'osite side of the work, a uniformly rotat'in Y actuating crankfa toggle device opijy connected with said crank and hava with.V said looper and lower needle, a uniformly rotating shaft, al needle-actuating crank thereonl rotatingin yunison with the first-named crank, and a. pitman connected wit'hsaid i f ,g

needle-actuating crank-and with said needlebar at a point offset from a diameter of the circular pathof movement of the needleand a. looper adapted vto seize a loop from Y one of said needles and spiead it for passage of-,the other needle, speed-accelerating connections between one of said shafts and one of saidneedles and between the other of said shafts and thelotlier of said needles and the looper, imparting to said needles and looper operative thread-engaging movements olf the same frequency and to -each movements-of greater frequency than the rotations of its respective shaft,- and a stopniotion device for controlling the operation of the moving parts of the machine.

In testimony whereof, -I have signed my l nameto this specification, in the presence of .two subscribing witnesses.

- EDWARD B. ALLEN. Witnesses: i

STANLEY N. SMITH,

H. M. BURN. 

